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Is Your Dog Pregnant?When it comes to mating, dogs can be very discrete - and rather indiscriminate - so you may not know puppies are on the way. There are a number of signs you can look out for, but most are not apparent until your bitch is well into her pregnancy (which on average lasts between 61 and 65 days).
Signs of pregnancy
Vaginal discharge will usually occur around 1 month after mating.
The teats will become more prominent due to an increase in the blood supply around the base of the nipples. This should appear between 25 to 30 days after mating.
Appetite is usually depressed during mid-pregnancy, but not in every case.
The abdomen will enlarge and the total body weight of your bitch may increase by 20%-55%. This may not be noticeable until 45-50 days into the pregnancy.
Behaviour may also change, such as displaying slight depression.
Closer to the delivery date, your bitch will probably start to express her nesting instincts, scratching at the floor or in her bed, and displaying signs of increasing restlessness.
On average, you should be able to tell whether or not your bitch is pregnant at around one month after mating.
Veterinary procedures
If you do suspect that your dog is pregnant, you'll need to see your vet for confirmation.
The most commonly used method is ultrasound. This can be used after 28 days, but may not be able to predict accurately how many puppies there are. Ultrasound examinations are comfortable because they are non invasive and very reliable.
Feeling the abdomen from about 21 days can be accurate, but it may be difficult if the dog is nervous or slightly overweight. If pregnant, the vet will feel a thickening of the uterus and "bumps" within. It isn't fool-proof, however, especially if there is just one pup in the womb or if the pregnancy is not as advanced as first thought.
From approximately 21-25 days endocrinological tests detect relaxin, a hormone exclusively produced by pregnant dogs.
The puppy's heart beats can be detected after about 25 days using a stethoscope or ECG. However it will be very difficult to determine how many puppies there are.
An x-ray will pick up the skeletons of the puppies from around 49 days. It should also be accurate in determining how many there are. At the same time, most vets prefer not to use this method, as there is a danger that the radiation might cause damage.
Your vet will discuss which test is best for your pet, as some of these procedures may not be suitable at certain stages of pregnancy.
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Pregnancy puts a huge stress on a pregnant animal. Her body will undergo some dramatic changes and she'll need lots of extra care and attention. So before mating your bitch, you will need to bear these changes in mind and decide if you are prepared to cope with them. And it’s always a good idea to contact your vet or a registered breeder to discuss the pros and cons.
Feeding and nutrition
An expectant mother will gradually require increasing amounts of high quality food to nourish her and the developing litter. Proper nutrients and minerals are vital for the puppies, whilst the mother will require more protein than usual for nursing in the early days of rapid growth. A high-energy food such as an ‘active’ or puppy formula will provide the additional calories and higher levels of other key nutrients she needs. As with the transition to any new food, moving to a high-energy formula should be done on a gradual basis, from approximately the sixth week of pregnancy. In the later stages of her pregnancy there will also be less room in her tummy for food, so feeding little and often is the key. Always ensure a fresh bowl of drinking water is available.
Remember also that obesity can be a dangerous problem for pregnant dogs, although pregnancy is not the time to introduce a weight loss program. Your vet will help guide you in choosing the right nutrition plan for your pet.
Exercise
Regular walking helps the expectant mother keep up her strength, although intensive training, showing, or even obedience schooling is probably too stressful (and inadvertent knocks to the body could damage the unborn puppies). By staying fit, she will be much more capable of handling the labour. Your pregnant bitch won’t be particularly delicate at first, but as pregnancy continues walking will become increasingly tiring and uncomfortable. The answer is to reduce the duration but increase the frequency of exercise.
Vaccinations
Your pet should not be vaccinated during pregnancy. Ideally, she will have had a series of boosters just prior to breeding. Healthy mothers pass on their immunity to puppies in the first milk they produce, so it's good to ensure antibody levels are at their peak.
Parasites
Flea control and worming are especially important both during pregnancy and after the puppies are born, so seek your vet’s advice. Roundworms and hookworms can be transmitted from the pregnant mother to her unborn puppies, so take preventative measures with pregnancy-safe products. If you usually give the expectant mother a heartworm preventive product, you can continue to do so during pregnancy. Your vet will be able to recommend an appropriate product to use.
Building a ‘nest’
During the final two weeks, build the mother a ‘nest’ where she can feel warm, comfortable and safe for the delivery. A cardboard box filled with blankets, sheets or old towels works particularly well. Place the nest in a quiet spot where she won't be disturbed, ideally close to a radiator or a warm boiler. The ideal temperature is 25 - 30 °C for the first few days, but the heat can then be reduced to 22°C as long as there are no draughts.
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Pregnancy has a significant effect on the nutritional requirements of a mum-to-be. The production of milk is one of most nutritionally demanding activities in a dog’s life. Like puppies, pregnant or nursing bitches need an extra boost of protein and energy to help them through this period of physical stress.
Whereas feeding larger quantities of their usual food may suit some animals, it is usually better to move to a high-energy food such as an ‘active’ or puppy formula for this period. The additional calories and higher levels of other key nutrients are just what a pregnant or lactating bitch needs. This is particularly advisable if your bitch is quite lean, or you suspect she may have a large litter of puppies.
As with the transition to any new food, moving to a high-energy formula should be done on a gradual basis, from approximately the sixth week of pregnancy. Progressively substitute a little more of the new food for the old over a period of about a week, until your pet is only eating the new food. As long as mum is on a complete diet, any further supplements will be unnecessary.
Changes in appetite
An expectant mother will gradually require increasing amounts of high quality food to nourish herself and the developing litter. Don’t immediately increase the volume of food your offer. For the first four to five weeks of pregnancy, a normal serving should suffice.
Between weeks three and four, your bitch may suffer from a little nausea and lose her appetite, similar to morning sickness. If an upset stomach or loss of appetite lasts longer than a week, or is accompanied by listlessness, you should contact your vet.
By week five, her mammary glands become deep pink in colour and you may notice she's got a bit thicker around the waist and the rib cage. At this point, gradually increase her feeding so she is receiving 20% more food by the time she gives birth.
Obesity, however, can be a problem during pregnancy, and if your dog has a past history of weight issues, seek your vet’s advice about how to increase her intake of key nutrients without risk.
In the later stages of pregnancy, the space left in her abdomen may be very small, so feeding a little and often will make her more comfortable. It is normal for a bitch to refuse food for 24 hours when delivery is imminent. By contrast, her food intake may be two to four times above her usual amount at peak lactation.
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If your bitch is about to give birth, don't panic! Dogs are much better equipped to deal with it all than we are. Make sure she is comfortable, watch from a sensitive distance, and only intervene if something goes seriously wrong - which it's unlikely to.
But needless to say, there are a few things you should know to make sure everything goes as smoothly as possible.
Be prepared
It's always a good idea to have your vet's out-of-hours number, as birth often occurs at night. And make sure you have all the essentials to hand, just in case - nail scissors, a clean dry towel and an extra basket, so if the litter is a large one, there will be plenty of room for the newborn puppies.
How do you know that the puppies are on their way?
In the final week of pregnancy, begin taking your dog's temperature, rectally, twice a day. The first noticeable sign of labour is a drop in mum's temperature from 38.5º C to 37º C (though normal body temperature can vary slightly from bitch to bitch). This usually occurs 12 to 24 hours before birth.
In the final stages, pregnant bitches will go off their food, may possibly vomit, and will probably scrabble at their bedding to prepare the nest for the imminent arrival of the puppies. Contractions are another obvious sign, during which she will tense and then relax as they pass. You can also expect mum to become very restless and unsettled and even begin to pant and shiver.
The final sign is a discharge from the vagina. This will often start out clear, change to a pale green and then to a dark green. This dark green means the placenta has become detached and the puppies are imminent. If your bitch has not had any puppies within an hour of this discharge, contact your vet for assistance.
The birth
Puppies are usually born within 20 minutes of each other, but it's normal for bitches to 'take a rest' partway through delivery and they may not strain at all for up to two hours between pups. And if you see your dog straining hard, appearing unsettled and restless for over an hour, or taking longer than a four-hour break, consult your vet.
Delivery
Expect some puppies (probably half of them) to be born tail first. This is not abnormal for dogs. Mum will deal with them, licking each puppy to ensure the sac is cleaned from the face so they can breathe easily, and biting through the umbilical cord.
If your bitch is giving birth for the first time, she may need a little extra help and reassurance, so be ready to offer some soothing words. Occasionally, the mother will be in the middle of delivering the next puppy when the last needs help. If this occurs, remove the membrane the puppy is in, take a piece of heavy thread and tie a knot approximately one inch from where the cord attaches to the body. Then tie another knot a little further from the first and use clean scissors to cut the cord between the knots. Quickly dry the puppy against the grain of the hair, using a clean cloth (facecloths work well because they're big enough to cover the puppy but won't get in your way). Finally, vigorous rubbing with a warm cloth will dry and warm the pup and also stimulate it to take its first breath. Crying clears all the fluid from the puppy's airway. If you have a suction bulb, you can gently use it in each nostril.
If labour lasts a long time, the mother may need to go to the toilet before or in between deliveries. Make sure you watch carefully in case she starts giving birth to the next pup at the same time.
After the entire labour is over, get the mother something to eat and drink, and help her go outside (although that might be difficult). Remove and replace the soiled nest covers, then give the new family some time alone.
However, if mum doesn't seem to be very interested in taking care of her puppies, particularly if this disinterest extends for more than an hour, you may need to take over - and consult your vet immediately. In occasional cases hand-rearing may be necessary, as a result of parental neglect or a mother's inability to produce milk.
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Most pregnancies are problem free and dogs generally make excellent mothers. Even though it's very rare for something to go wrong, it's still a good idea to keep your eyes open and know how to spot a problem if it does occur. On the off chance something out of the ordinary does happen, the basic rule is to seek veterinary help.
Contact your vet if…
Before the birth
More than 70 days of gestation have passed since mating.
60 minutes of strong contractions occur without a puppy appearing.
More than two hours 'rest' passes between pups, and you know there are more inside.
The mother fails to go into labour within 24 hours of her temperature drop.
She is obviously in extreme pain.
After the birth
Fever, vaginal discharge, loss of appetite, listlessness or a lack of interest in the puppies (potentially a sign of an inflammation of the uterus - metritis).
Twitching, nervousness, restlessness and a stiff, painful gait, which may be a sign of eclampsia, a calcium deficiency.
Inflammation of the breasts (mastitis). Mammary glands become red, hard and painful.
Diarrhoea may develop by the mother especially if afterbirths were eaten. This is not unusual in the first few days after the birth, but may be a sign of other complications and should be reported to your vet.
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The caesarean operation or simply Caesarean [ C-Section ] as is commonly known, consists in making and abdominal incision in order to reach the matrix or uterus, and then to extract the fetus or fetuses. It is usually only practiced when there is a real danger for the life of the mother or there is very little probability of saving the lives of the puppies. Doing a Caesarean operation is perfectly justified in the following cases:
1. Problems of the mother:
small or collapsed pelvis;
scarce or no dilatation of the vaginal and vulvar tissue;
uterine inertia (primary or secondary).
2. Problems of the fetuses:
extremely big fetuses for the size of the mother;
wrongly positioned fetuses that have difficulties passing through the vagina;
2 fetuses in the body of the uterus at the same time (when the first one still hasn't been expelled and the other one has already started its way out).
However, besides these perfectly logic reasons for opting for Caesarean, some veterinarians and/or dog owners tend to resort to this operation too easily because of how easy it is and because they want to avoid the risk of losing one or more of the puppies. Nevertheless, you must bear in mind that when you put an animal through this kind of operation, there is always the risk of losing her due to complications that might arise as a result of the administration of title anesthesia, which can lead to cardiorespiratory problems. It's not worth it to put her through that just because you want to sleep a couple more hours. Whenever possible, let nature have its way.
A C-Section can be costly,pet insurance does not cover this or anything to do with dog pregnancies,make sure you have all the costs put away before a mating takes place incase of an Emergency,do remember you can loose your beloved pet & the complete litter if problems do occur.
If you do not intend to breed from your bitch our advice is that you should have her speyed. The best time to do this is about 2 months following the end of her first season,i prefere to wait for the bitch to mature mentally & physically usually after her second season.Although alot of people are spaying before their first,its totally down to you
Pyometra is an infection of the uterus. It is a serious condition that can become life-threatening if not treated. Pyometra occurs as a consequence of hormonal changes effecting the lining of the uterus. Following oestrus ("heat"), progesterone levels remain elevated for 8-10 weeks and thicken the lining of the uterus in preparation for pregnancy. If pregnancy does not occur for several oestrus cycles, the lining continues to increase in thickness until cysts form within it. The thickened, cystic lining secretes fluids that create an ideal environment in which bacteria can grow.
Are there other situations that cause the changes in the uterus? Yes. The use of progesterone-based drugs can do this. In addition, oestrogen will increase the effects of progesterone on the uterus. Drugs containing both hormones are used to treat certain conditions of the reproductive system.
How do bacteria get into the uterus? The cervix is the gateway to the uterus, it remains tightly closed except during oestrus. When it is open, bacteria that are normally found in the vagina can enter the uterus rather easily. If the uterus is normal, the environment is adverse to bacterial survival; however, when the uterine wall is thickened and cystic, perfect conditions exist for bacterial growth. In addition, when these abnormal conditions exist, the muscles of the uterus cannot contract properly. This means that bacteria that enter the uterus cannot be expelled.
When does it occur? The typical time for pyometra to occur is about 1-2 months following oestrus. Pyometra may occur in young to middle-aged dogs; however, it is most common in older dogs. After many years of oestrus cycles without pregnancy, the uterine wall undergoes the changes that promote this disease.
What are the clinical signs of a dog with pyometra?
The clinical signs depend on whether or not the cervix is open. If it is open, pus will drain from the uterus through the vagina to the outside. It is often noted on the hair under the tail or on bedding and furniture where the dog has laid. Fever, lethargy, anorexia, and depression may be present.
If the cervix is closed, pus that forms is not able to drain to the outside. It collects in the uterus causing distension of the abdomen. The bacteria release toxins which are absorbed into the circulation. Bitches with A closed pyometra often become severely ill very rapidly. They are anorectic, very listless, and very depressed. Vomiting or diarrhoea may be present:Toxins from the bacteria affect the kidney's ability to retain fluid. Increased urine production occurs, and the dog drinks an excess of water. This occurs in both open- and closed-cervix pyometra.
How is it diagnosed?Pyometra is always suspected in a ill entire bitch that is drinking an increased amount of water and has had a season within the last 1 - 2 months. Diagnosis is more obvious if there is a vaginal discharge or enlarged abdomen. Blood tests will usually reveal an increased white blood cell count (indicating infection) and often elevated kidney enzymes ( indicating kidney damage due to the bacterial toxins). However, all of these abnormalities may be present in any dog with a major bacterial infection. If we need confirmation of the diagnosis of pyometra then x-rays of the abdomen are taken to look for an enlarged uterus.
How is it treated? The best treatment is to surgically remove the uterus and ovaries immediately. This is called an ovariohysterectomy ("spey"). Bitches with pyometra usually require intravenous fluid therapy as they are often very ill. Antibiotics are given for 1-2 weeks. It is important not to delay presenting your bitch to the vet if you think she may have a pyometra. Delay could cost her her life.
I have a valuable breeding bitch, is there an alternative to surgery? There is a medical approach to treating pyometra. Prostaglandins are a group of hormones that reduce the blood level of progesterone, relax and open the cervix, and contract the uterus to expel bacteria and pus. They can be used successfully to treat this disease, but they are not always successful and they have some important limitations:They cause side-effects of restlessness, panting, vomiting, defaecation, salivation, and abdominal pain. The side-effects occur within about 15 minutes of an injection and last for a few hours. They become progressively milder with each successive treatment and may be lessened by walking the dog for about 30 minutes following an injection.
As there is no clinical improvement for about 48 hours dogs that are severely ill are poor candidates.
Because they contract the uterus, it is possible for the uterus to rupture and spill infection into the abdominal cavity. This is most likely to happen when the cervix is closed.
What happens if neither of the above treatments are given? The chance of successful treatment without surgery or prostaglandin treatment is extremely low. If treatment is not performed quickly, the toxic effects from the bacteria will be fatal. If the cervix is closed, it is also possible for the uterus to rupture, spilling the infection into the abdominal cavity. This will also be fatal.
